Traveling to the remote village of Buscalan, Kalinga to get a tattoo never occurred to me even in my wildest dreams. But Apo Whang-od changes everything.
About Buscalan, Kalinga
Buscalan village is a remote community located in the municipality of Tinglayan in the mountains of Kalinga province. The place may be out of travelers’ radar before but Apo Whang-Od, a traditional tattoo artist, made Buscalan, Kalinga famous not only in the Philippines but the rest of the world. As such, the province has been loved for its traditional tattooing culture that has been around for decades and has been kept alive up to this day.
But aside from getting your Buscalan tattoo, the place will spoil you with the view of stunning landscapes of terraced rice fields and lush surroundings. If you want to take a break from the busy city life, Buscalan, Kalinga may offer you the escape that you need (no cell sginal and very limited wifi, oops!).
And did I mention about their coffee? If you’re a coffee lover, don’t forget to try the coffee they have because it is one of the best ones I’ve tried! No kidding.
Apo Whang-Od, the Last Mambabatok
More often than not, Buscalan, Kalinga has been referred to as “Apo Whang-Od location”. Apo Whang-Od, also known as Maria Oggay, has been hailed as the last mambabatok and the oldest tattoo artist in the world.
In the Kalinga language, mambabatok means traditional tattoo artist practicing the art of hand-tapped tattooing. Batok refers to the process of hand-tapped tattooing.
It is said that a mambabatok can only pass on their craft within their bloodlines. Apo Whang-od does not have any biological children to carry on her legacy but she enabled her grandnieces Grace Palicas and Elyang Wigan to continue practicing the traditional Kalinga tattooing. Hopefully it will be kept by generations to come.
Apo Whang-Od had faced a lot of controversies as her name grew into fame. Some people question the act of giving the tattoos to people not part of the Kalinga tribe, that by doing so, the tattoos have lost its real meaning and significance. Some people see Apo Whang-od being exploited having to perform the tattooing at such an old age. Even Apo Whang-od’s real age has been debated upon.
I’m not a tattoo person but seeing Apo Whang-Od in the flesh gave me so much inspiration. Seeing her in all her grace and beauty at such age doing what she does best hits different. Amidst all controversies, one thing is for sure, Apo Whang-Od has carved a special place in people’s heart.
Batok or Hand-Tapping Tattoo
Batok or Kalinga’s traditional method of tattooing involves hand-tapping tattoos on the skin. The mambabatok or the tattoo artist uses bamboo stick with pomelo thorns and charcoal as ink.
To start, the mambabatok will outline your chosen tattoo design in your body using the ink. Then the actual hand-tapping of ink using the bamboo stick will be done to permanently mark the tattoo design. Small tattoo designs just takes a few minutes to complete.
Hand-tapped tattoos is generally more painful to get than modern tattoos where electric tattoo machine is utilized.
What to Prepare When Getting a Buscalan Tattoo
Getting your traditional Buscalan tattoo is pretty easy. You just need to prepare the following:
- Bamboo stick – this can only be bought at the village for PHP100. If your tattoo design is big, you might need more than one because the thorn on the stick can break after a lot of forceful tapping were made. After your session, you can keep it as a souvenir.
- Tattoo design – you can choose from several designs. They have a tattoo design book/card that you can refer to.
- Wet tissue – you need tissues to wipe off your blood.
- Disposable shaver – if the body part you want to place your tattoo is hairy, you need to shave it off.
If you’re someone like me who is a bit afraid of blood, bring a lot of courage! And your tolerance for pain as well.
Some people might say that getting a traditional tattoo like the one from Buscalan is not hygienic and you’re prone to health risks. While you don’t get a proper studio setup with highly standardized sanitary measures in Buscalan, getting your tattoo at the place is generally safe and there has not been a case (as of this writing) that someone got ill after their session.
I’ve got this really good tip from a friend who gets tattoo as travel souvenirs too – make sure to handover or give your tissue especially to Apo Whang-Od to wipe off your blood during your tattoo session. With Apo Whang-Od’s age and her tattooing almost whole day, she can be a bit all over the place and might just grab any tissue (Apo Whang-Od is so sharp for her age but you want to make sure you don’t use someone else’s used tissue).
Tattoo Designs and Meaning
Don’t worry if you haven’t made up your mind yet about the design that you want. You can refer to their list or tattoo design book for the traditional tattoo design that they have and their meanings.
Apo Whang-Od Tattoo Meaning
Because of the high number of tourists traveling to Buscalan, Kalinga to get a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od, she only does her signature tattoo or what they call three dots these days.
The three dots mainly represents Apo and her two grandnieces, Grace and Elyang. If you don’t arrive early especially on weekends, you’ll be waiting for long to get a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od.
If you don’t want to get a tattoo, you can still get a photo taken with Apo Whang-Od for a minimal fee.
Apo Whang-Od’s grandnieces, Grace and Elyang, can definitely do the other tattoo designs that you want. Other locals at the place can perform the tattooing as well.
Tattoo Aftercare
Different people especially those used to getting inked have different aftercare routines. Some would even say just let it naturally heal and don’t put on anything on the tattoo. I only had Apo Whang-Od’s signature three dots so I just let mine heal naturally and it turned out fine.
Below is a list of some aftercare tips you can consider:
- Once your tattoo start to have scabs, do not scratch it or peel it off.
- You can wash your tattoo with a regular antibacterial soap and water.
- After washing your tattoo, just pat it dry with a clean cloth.
- You can also check out tattoo aftercare cream from tattoo shops in Manila.
- It is recommended not to wear tight clothes around the tattoo area.
- Avoid touching the tattoo with dirty hands.
- Avoid eating food like fish, chicken, seafood, and egg so as not to make your tattoo itchy.
Sample Buscalan Itinerary
A weekend trip to Buscalan, Kalinga is definitely enough if you only intend to get a tattoo. It can be a bit challenging to get a chance to get Apo Whang-Od’s signature tattoo so the earlier you arrive, the better.
DAY 0 FRIDAY: START LAND TRAVEL
04:00 pm – Start land travel to Buscalan
DAY 1 SATURDAY: ARRIVAL IN BUSCALAN
05:00 am – ETA in Buscalan
05:30 am – Start trekking to the village
06:00 am – Homestay check-in/breakfast (you can bring your own food or buy from sari-sari stores at the village)
08:00 am – Tattoo session. You can opt for Apo Whang-Od’s signature tattoo (3 dots) and or tribal design tattoo by Grace or Elyang (Apo Whang-Od’s grandnieces). If you can’t wait or find the line too long, there are other locals who can also give you the tattoo.
12:00 pm – Lunch
01:00 pm – Buscalan tour: you can explore around the village. There are also souvenir stores you can check.
07:00 pm – Dinner
10:00 pm – Lights off
DAY 3 SUNDAY: BACK TO MANILA
06:00 am – Breakfast
07:00 am – Descent from Buscalan
08:00 am – Start travel back to Manila
08:00 pm – ETA in Manila
Buscalan, Kalinga Travel Tips
- Buscalan, Kalinga is a remote village so the accommodations available are homestays or guesthouses run by local families. Expect really basic but decent room provisions.
- After your land travel, there is a 30-minute hike to reach the village. Make sure to wear comfortable clothing. Pack light too so you won’t have a hard time ascending the village.
- There is no cell signal in the village. There is also very limited access to internet.
- You can opt to bring your own snacks and food. There are also small stores in the village where you can buy basic stuff. You can buy souvenirs too from several shops like t-shirts and ref magnets.
- If the weather is good, you can explore the village and take nice photos. It is also good to interact with the locals.
- There is a 10PM curfew around the village.
- Aside from Apo Whang-od and here grandnieces (Grace and Elyang), other locals can perform tattoo on you.
- Make sure to try the coffee at the village!
Thigs to Bring
- Extra cash – make sure to bring extra cash because once you get in the area there are no ATM machines available.
- Food/water – there are stores around the village that you can buy from but you can also opt to bring your own food/snacks.
- Insect repellent lotion
- Medicine/personal medication
- Towel and toiletries
- Jacket, beanie/bonnet, and socks – it can rally get cold during the night.
- Wet wipes/tissue
- Disposable razor/shaver
- Power bank
Why I love My Apo Whang-od Tattoo
As I’m not really a tattoo person, I thought so hard if I’ll get inked by Apo Whang-od. Initially it was more of accompanying a friend for me to fulfil his goal of getting inked in Buscalan.
While there are a lot of people wanting to get tattooed in Buscalan, Kalinga, there are also those who do not like the idea very much. Some will say it’s too much of a health risk considering the setup they have in the village (But remember, you use your own bamboo stick. Even if you’re in a well setup tattoo studio, there is still a risk involved.)
Some would question the meaning or the relevance of the Kalinga tattoos to you, with others believing it is meant to be taken by those part of the village or tribe. There are a number of people who sees Apo Whang-od being exploited having to perform the tattooing herself at her very old age.
Apo Whang-od had faced a lot of controversies but one thing I’m certain when I met her – I see a woman who is doing one thing she loves even if she is grey and old. And that really struck me. Have you asked yourself what is one thing that you want to do for the rest of your life?
When I was younger, I have this this odd thought of not wanting to get old. I used to think that when you get old, you’ll just be sickly, always in bed, and not be able to do anything. Seeing the radiance and sharpness Apo Whang-od has despite her old age, she inspired me to age gracefully instead of fearing it. After so many losses of loved ones, I learned how life can be fleeting and that as cliché as it may sound, getting old is a privilege denied to many.
While it’s known what the meaning of Apo Whang-od’s tree-dot tattoo is, to me it means something else. It is a reminder for me to do things that I really love. And hopefully to be able to do them until I’m grey and old. Meeting Apo Whang-od meant so much to me – she made me appreciate aging and to be able to do so with grace.
Youtube Video
Watch our full episode of getting Apo Whang-Od’s tattoo on Youtube. Don’t forget to subscribe 🙂
Thank you for sharing such useful insights. Many articles online are too brief or unclear, but this one felt thoughtful and detailed. I like the writing style and how easy it was to follow. Keep up the good work!
This reply is a bit late, but thank you for appreciating 🙂